Explanation of Men's Dress Shoes, (Hierarchy of Formality and Why Good Dress Shoes Are Expensive,)

[Maximus Rex]

As I said in What Type of Boots Do Y'all Rockhttp://community.allhiphop.com/discussion/479420/what-type-of-boots-do-yall-rock#latest I had to get rid of Sorels because the ice and snow melt ate through the bottom of the bottoms. This article is on the proper footwear maintenance. The fact of the matter is dudes are paying to much money, (especially on winter footwear,) only to have to trash it after a season or two before of salt stains or the due of the acidity in the ice and snow melt has fucked up the bottoms of their boots. From my personal experience, your primary winter boots should be ones with replaceable soles. In the event that the sole wears out, you'll just replace the sole of the boot, as opposed to the entire boot, which is considerably cheaper.

Waterproofing Your Shoes – A Man’s Guide to Weather Resistant Footwear
http://www.artofmanliness.com/2010/03/03/waterproofing-shoes/​

A pair of well-made shoes are expensive; they become much more expensive, however, when you have to retire them early because you did not care for them properly. I recently learned this hard way when the leather on my favorite pair of Chelsea boots cracked. Although I had waterproofed them according to my “Texas” standards (weekly polish, twice a year waterproofing compound application), I learned rather painfully that this was woefully inadequate for a Wisconsin winter (think daily polish, weekly waterproofing or better yet wearing galoshes). Accidentally leaving them near my bedroom’s radiator didn’t help the situation either. In an effort to prevent my misfortune from becoming yours, I offer you this article on how to prevent rain, snow, and salt from damaging your shoes.

Water Damaged Leather Shoes​

I’d like to thank Paul Herwaldt for his help on this article – he’s a 3rd generation cobbler who owns Shoe Repair Plus in Green Bay, WI. FYI, he performs shoe repair via mail at a fair price – highly recommended for those of you who do not have access to a local cobbler.

Why Care About Weatherproofing Your Footwear?

Water & Salt Damage is Expensive – Water can and will destroy the suppleness of your shoe’s leather; leather that would have withstood tens of thousands of flexes can have its life cut to a fraction of this. Leather is animal skin, most often cattle or horse, which is made up of fat and proteins that retain a set amount of moisture after being tanned. The fibers that criss-cross each other in the corium give leather its unique strength, but are also susceptible to drying out and cracking if not treated with care. You must minimize rapid influxes and releases of moisture and exposure to alkalines or acids, both of which can permanently damage the leather.

Salt Stained Shoe​

In addition, salt and other harsh chemicals can stain leather. They are difficult to remove once they permeate the leather itself, and if left untreated will not only discolor but weaken the top layers and can damage the finish. A simple layer of waxy polish between the leather and these harmful elements could be the difference between a one minute cleaning versus a costly trip to the cobbler. Need to remove a salt stain? Visit the New York Shoe expert Leffot and their article on salt stain removal.

Comfort –Wet feet are uncomfortable and most of us do not have the option of taking our shoes off and walking around in socks at work. Nothing can ruin a Monday morning presentation like cold wet feet and squeaking shoes. Why let something you can control become a distraction?

How to Make Your Shoes Water Resistant

Notice that I didn’t say waterproof. No amount of polish or “waterproofing” spray is going to keep out water if you are continuously subjecting your footwear to the elements. However, performing these steps are important as that they do provide short-term protection. Even the man who owns galoshes does not always have the luxury of having them handy when the weather takes a turn for the worse.

1. Select a Waterproofing Compound

There is a lot of debate on the subject of which waterproofing compound is best – not only are the brands fighting it out (as expected) but many shoe aficionado’s have their take as to which method and technique works the best. So please add your tips and suggestions in the comments!

Meltonian Boot and Shoe Polish​

Wax-based polishes – Unlike shoe pastes and creams, which are designed more to nourish the leather, wax based polishes are made to create a shine and by doing so create a thin protective layer than can provide light resistance to water and salt. Manufacturers such as Lincoln make a good product, along with Meltonian who also provides their polish in a wide range of colors. The key to this type of protection is consistent application after every few wears, or every wear if the weather is particularly wet.

Specialty waterproof compounds – Obenauf’s Heavy Duty Leather Preservative and Sno-Seal Weather Protectant are just two examples of waterproofing compounds whose main purpose is protection – they do a solid job when applied properly and have a longer sticking period than polishes. Unlike the above mentioned compounds, these protectants are not meant to create a shine but rather to seal out moisture; as such they may need to be used in conjunction with a polish once the seal has been set.

Spray on waterproofing compounds – Of all the waterproofing techniques, this one receives the most amount of flack. Common arguments are that it doesn’t allow the leather to breath and that if the compound contains silicone it will dry out the leather. My stance is if ease of use is your concern, then it’s much better to use a spray on waterproofing than nothing at all. Companies such as Meltonian make a water & stain protector that in my experience is safe to use on leather and suede and will be dry and ready to use in 30 minutes. These waterproofing sprays should be used liberally, as I learned they lose their effectiveness after only a few wears. They are not meant to penetrate the leather, but rather form a protective coat on top of it.

2. Test & Prepare for Waterproofing

This next step is especially important for any shoe that is not black – you need to ensure the compound you have chosen does not change the appearance of the shoe. Do not assume that because the waterproofing compound manufacturer claims that it will not affect color that it won’t – you do not want to be the exception to the rule. Choose a discreet part of your shoe, such as the side of the shoe’s tongue under the laces, and apply a small amount to see how it reacts. After you are more confident, move to an area like the inner back of the shoe and test again. After a few hours you should be ready to move forward. If you haven’t already, remove the laces and thoroughly clean the shoe with a brush and rag to remove dirt.

Applying the Protectant​

 

[Maximus Rex]

Waterproofing Your Shoes – A Man’s Guide to Weather Resistant Footwear Pt. II​

3. Apply the Water Resistant Compound Evenly and Ensure a Barrier Is Formed

The only difference in a waterproof compound application vs. a shining compound application is the attention you should pay to forming an unbroken seal. When shining your shoes you can spot shine on occasion – when waterproofing you need to ensure a water tight barrier is formed or the whole process is for naught.

For a refresher on how to apply polish to your shoes visit this older AOM article on how to Shine Your Shoes like a Soldier or for a video check out Tim Broderick’s How to Shine and Condition Your Shoes.

Choose the Right Footwear

Beater Shoes – One option I hear often suggested in dealing with adverse weather is to wear shoes that you do not care about. The problem here is that this doesn’t deal with the situation of when you need to look professional and the weather outside is cold and wet. I personally would rather have the right equipment than have a pair of shoes whose sole purpose is to be ruined in bad weather.

ECCO Berlin GTX​

Specialty Footwear – There are many companies that make solid footwear using water resistent materials such as gortex, synthetic leathers, and non-slip rubber soles. Although they are not on the same level as higher end men’s shoes and do not offer as much protection as galoshes, their stylish design and inclement weather durability make them a favorite among practical men. An example is the ECCO Berlin GTX - as you can see above, it’s large sole and open laced design make it a less dressy shoe than a classic oxford. But when it comes to not having to worry about the rain or snow and for the man who does not want to be hassled with multiple pairs of shoes, these are hard to beat.

Boots – From hiking to work, boots are made to be tougher and are a great choice for inclement weather thanks to their height and ability to protect the ankles. Unfortunately they are limited in the range of clothing they can be worn with; anything dressier than odd trousers is stretching their boundaries. Although the dress boot has a wider range and can be worn with a mens suit, it provides less protection than its rougher brethren. Due to its more delicate sole and smaller heel you’ll have less clearance when traversing puddles and thus dress boots should be worn with as much care as dress shoes. With all that being said, all boots should be treated regularly with a waterproofing compound depending on the wearers environment and frequency of wear.

A Sleek Overshoe by SWIM​

Galoshes – Galoshes are rubber footwear that slip over shoes and protect them from the elements. The term includes both over-shoes and over-boots, the difference being the amount of protection afforded the wearer. With a history of serving men (and women) for over 100 years, they have perfected the art of keeping the wearer dry by completely encapsulating the feet and as an added bonus often provide excellent traction. Their downside is that proper fit is a must and their additional weight can take some time getting used to – there are also the problems of where to store them and that they are often at home when that unexpected afternoon shower hits.

A good pair of new galoshes can range in price from $20 to well over $150, the difference being durability and style although a very solid pair for occasional wear can be found for less than $30. Companies like Swim offer a wide range of durable and stylish galoshes online; for the man walking more than a quarter mile to work daily in wet weather these are one of the smarter purchases he can make.

Galoshes & Traction​

What to Do When Your Shoes Are Already Wet?

I’d like to end this article with the steps you should take in the case you do soak a pair of quality leather shoes. Because despite all of your planning, you’re bound to get caught in the rain once!

Remove excess water from the outside of the shoe using a dry rag or towel.

1. Pull the moisture from the inside of the shoe. This can be done with newspaper or a small dry towel.

2. The key here is to draw the moisture out, so every hour or so replace the moist paper with dry paper. Depending on the extent of the soaking, this could take from 2 hours to 2 days.

3. Do not place the shoes near a heat source; let them dry slowly at room temperature. If you heat them you will cause the moisture to leave too quickly and greatly increase the chance of the leather cracking. Cracked leather cannot be fixed on a man’s shoe or boot.

4. Once the shoes appear dry and no more moisture is being drawn out of the shoe, clean and condition with a leather balm or cream and finally polish normally. Over the next week ensure you clean and polish after every wearing.

Written by

Antonio Centeno

President, www.ATailoredSuit.com

 

[Maximus Rex]

http://www.realmenrealstyle.com/dress-loafers-guide/

King George VI is planning his annual summer retreat in his English country-side estate. There’s one snag in the plan. His shoe collection is void of footwear that is suitable for wearing indoors. He commissions the royal shoe makers to design a pair of slip-on shoes that are comfortable and yet stylish. The result? The loafer. This fictitious story created the mantra that loafers are traditionally a laid-back shoe. Over the years designers have modernized this casual slipper to achieve a higher level of formality.

These VERSATILE and COMFORTABLE shoes combine the convenience of slip-on shoes with the formality of business clothes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ucll3XIeh2g

All the loafers in this video were provided by Paul Evans.

They are a great company with shoes handcrafted in Italy and designed in New York City.

1. Ability to Slip On and Off

2. . No Buckles or Laces

3. A Casual Shoe by Nature

4. The Use of a Wide Variety of Materials

And the best part? You can wear them with or without socks.

Four Defining Characteristics of a Dress Loafer

If the slipper is the father, the moccasin is the mother of the loafer. Loafers now have a wide range of formality from casual to dapper. Each of the different styles are discussed in more detail below. Some of the defining characteristics of loafers are:

1. The Penny Loafer

In 1876, George Henry Bass introduced the Mocc, a soft leather moccasin. In 1936 the Bass Shoe Co adapted the design of a Norwegian fishermen moccasin style shoe and called it Weejun combining the words Norwegian and Injun. Weejuns are also referred to as penny loafers. The distinctive addition was a strip of leather across the saddle with a diamond cut-out.

The shoes feature a distinctive semi-pocket on the vamp, a strip of leather across the saddle. The diamond cut-out was perfectly suited to store a penny to be used in case of an emergency, hence the namepenny loafer.

Penny loafers are the most versatile loafers and are complementary to your outfit when combined with chinos, flannel pants, or corduroys.

2. The Belgian Loaferbelgium loafers

Belgian loafers are soft-soled slip on, elegant loafers with a small bow on the front. Originally produced as a slipper for indoor use, these soft-soled shoes are made using the meticulous turned method. The shoes are sewn inside-out and flipped once they are completed. This process ensures that each stitch on the shoe is flawless. The Belgian style has more of a slipper heritage rather than a moccasin heritage. Belgian falls under the casual formality similar to the Penny Loafer.

3. The Tassel Loafer

Tassel loafers will be the most casual of loafers.

Dating back to around the 1950’s tassle loafers fall just below the Belgian loafer on the formality scale but are close cousins in design. Tassel loafers feature dangling leather tassels which decorate the top vamp of the shoe. Black or oxblood tassel loafers present the same level of formality as a navy-blue blazer and gray trouser combination.

Originally designed as a wholecut style, the tassel loafer has a rounded toe outlined by a reverse seam. These loafers are often made of cordovan leather and have been known for their classic and timeless style, durability and versatility. Tasseled loafers are a winning choice when paired with chinos and a blazer.

4. The Horsebit Or Gucci Loafer

As the formality grew for loafers in the US, internationally they were still viewed as casual. It was uncommon to see loafers and suits worn together throughout the rest of the world. It wasn’t until the gucci (or bit) loafer was designed by the Italian powerhouse designer Gucci himself that it began to be accepted as a formal piece worldwide. Although many brands now make bit loafers, Gucci remains the originator of this design. The defining piece on the loafers is the gleaming snaffle or metal bar that looks like a horse’s bit, in the centre of the vamp.

The bit loafer in black leather presents a fine option for suits, however it doesn’t climb all the way to a black or white tie affair.

Loafer Materials – Suede or Leather?

Most types of loafers are made of either leather or suede. Leather loafers are suitable for smarter looks, either with a full suit or a tailored outfit. Suede loafers present a more casual approach. It is best to reserve suede loafers for the spring and summer months. They should be protected from moisture at all times. Leather loafers are sturdier than suede loafers and will also wear well over the years.

How Should Loafers Fit?

The comfort of your shoes is determined largely by how your feet fit in them. Since loafers can be worn without socks, avoid wearing thick socks when trying them on at the shop. It is generally advised to buy one size down when the intention is to go sockless in a pair of quality leather loafers.

Measure your foot from the back of the heel to the tip of the big toes.

Different manufacturers have different sizing standards – having your actual measurement handy is helpful in comparing sizes from various brands.

Pairing Dress Loafers With Clothes

Although the rules for pairing shoes with suits have relaxed in the past decade, it is best to choose slip-on shoes with an appropriate level of formality. Ensure the loafers have a high vamp and a heel.

 

[Maximus Rex]

Ultimate Guide to Formal Loafers Pt. II

How do you pair loafers with your clothes?

• A laid-back evening – Jeans in a medium to dark wash and a button-down shirt . Undo a button or two and roll up the sleeves. Penny loafers would work best with this attire.
  
• A date night – Dress up a polo shirt by pairing it with a navy blazer and a brown suede Belgian loafers.
  
• Avoid gaudy – Be careful not to allow gold or silver decorations on the upper to become so gaudy that they distract attention from your outfit by drawing the eyes to your shoes.
  
• With suits – Most Italian style loafers are too sleek and lightweight for American-style suits. Ensure the dress loafer you pair with suits has a thick sole and a heel. The horsebit loafers are perfect for this.
  
• Loafers and shorts – Avoid pairing loafers with shorts.
  
• Socks or no socks – This is a matter of personal preference. Socks with loafers can add visual appeal, but they are not necessary. Allow the weather and occasion to make the choice for you.
  

Loafer Color Choices

The wide variety of loafer styles and range of colors can make the process of choosing a pair slightly tricky. Unless you are trying to make a fashion statement, stay with conservative colors – brown, black, navy and gray. These are the most versatile colors and will match most outfit combinations. The traditional color for dress loafers is black. Brown and oxblood are however, more versatile than black.

What About the Monk Strap?

You may be asking about another common slip-on shoe, the Monk Strap. Does it fall into the loafer family? The lack of laces resembles the common characteristic of the loafer, however it falls on a totally different part of the casual to formal scale. Why? Well we wrote a great article that talks about this shoe. Read all about the history and more in The Ultimate Guide to Double Monk Strap Dress Shoes.

Final Words

Loafers straddle up and down the casual to formal scale, making this a staple for every man’s wardrobe. There are some who believe that wearing a loafer increases the leg line. The shoes make a man taller as a result of the legs appearing longer. If you are on your feet a lot during the day, a combination of quality and comfort is essential for your footwear. Shoes are no place to skimp on quality. Loafers have practically taken the shoe industry by storm in recent times because men all over the world appreciate the convenience and comfort they offer.

If you pride Italian leather and shoemakers combined with a New York-inspired design, take a look at PAUL EVANS.

The NEW YORK label has been cranking out stylish men’s loafers and dress shoes made from quality leather and crafted by skilled artisans in Naples, Italy.

 

[Maximus Rex]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EMXkFum1ApQ

http://www.realmenrealstyle.com/matching-shoes-with-suit/

Black shoes and a black suit work great if you’re going to a funeral, but most of the time we’re a little more colorful in our wardrobes.

How does a man wearing a navy, light-grey, or brown suit match his shoes with the suit color?

That’s what this article is about!

Take a moment to get to know the following chart.

It pairs the five most common suit colors — navy, medium or mid-gray, charcoal, brown, and black — with three different shoes to show you which colors work with which leathers.

Now, are these shoe matching rules absolute?

Not entirely — but it’s a very safe guide to follow.

If you’re bucking the advice here, it should be because you’re going for a really unique look or you know the rules and make a conscious decision to ignore them!

For example, we don’t have the burgundy shoes paired with a black suit. But a rocker might wear a black suit with red Converse All-Stars, and that would be, if not exactly timeless men’s style, certainly a style choice that could work.

There are going to be exceptions.

But there aren’t many of them, and if you’re sticking to classic business and business-casual dress, let this chart be your guide.

Most of the time it’s not too hard.

Strict business formality is easy — a charcoal gray or navy blue suit and plain black shoes.

But as the suits (and the business climate) become more relaxed, you get the option of wearing different colors of leather with them. That’s a stumbling block for a lot of men — and the wrong color of shoes and belt can ruin even a fine suit.

Here’s how most of these combinations play out in practical, day-to-day dress:

[color=navy blue]1. Navy Blue Suits[/color]

16-4-l

Pair with:

• Black shoes
  
• Brown shoes
  
• Red or burgundy shoes
  

Navy can go comfortably with all three of the main color families of men’s leather shoes. You can probably even make a navy suit work with more exotic colors if you have them, although blue is generally too close to make a good contrast.

The leather color mostly affects the formality and attitude of a navy suit. Black shoes are

Black shoes are business dress, while brown are more relaxed, and red or burgundy give it the most playful, social feel.

Navy can go comfortably with all three of the main color families of men’s leather shoes. You can probably even make a navy suit work with more exotic colors if you have them, although blue is generally too close to make a good contrast.

The leather color mostly affects the formality and attitude of a navy suit. Black shoes are

Black shoes are business dress, while brown are more relaxed, and red or burgundy give it the most playful, social feel.

2. Medium And Light Gray Suits

16-1-lPair with:

• Black shoes
  
• Brown shoes
  
• Red or burgundy shoes
  

Medium gray suits are less formal than navy suits, and share a similar flexibility. You can pair them effectively with just about any color of leather.

In the case of medium gray, black is the best option when you’re wearing a white shirt and a necktie.

It’s still not proper business dress (the suit itself is too light), but it’s quite typical in offices where suits are mandatory but somewhat relaxed. Brown and burgundy shoes make it more of a casual/social look, and work best when the shirt has a bit of pattern or color to it as well.

3. Brown Suits

16-21-lPair with:

• Brown shoes
  
• Red or burgundy shoes
  

Do not pair with:

• Black shoes
  

Take a caveat here — brown suits work with most brown shoes. You want a visible contrast between the color of the shoe leather and the color of the suit. If they’re identical or almost-identical, it looks off.

Apart from that, brown’s great with most casual leather shoes. It’s generally better to have the shoe leather darker than the suit (helps keep the eye from being drawn downward), but either way can work so long as you have a clear contrast.

4. Charcoal Grey Suits

16-3-lPair with:

• Black shoes
  
• Burgundy shoes
  

Do not pair with:

• Brown shoes
  

Here’s where we get to our first firm “no” on the list: don’t pair charcoal suits with brown shoes.

Dark browns look like you’re trying for a close match and coming up short.

Light browns are too informal, and draw the eye jarringly downward. Plain black works best, or a deep burgundy for a look that’s relaxed but still elegant.

5. Black Suits

16-6-lPair with:

• Black shoes
  

Do not pair with:

• Brown shoes
  
• Burgundy shoes
  

Black’s not very flexible. That’s why we generally recommend charcoal gray or navy blue in its place as a first suit. If you own one, pair it with black shoes, and save the outfit for funerals and strict business dress occasions.

Any other color of shoe is going to look too casual with black.

Other Colors

The chart at the top is built around the most common colors of suit and leather dress shoes.

You’ll probably end up with more colors of suit/trouser than just those five, and more colors of shoe than those three. That especially gets true once you start wearing leather shoes with casual trousers (like jeans), or dress suits with casual shoes (like canvas sneakers).

Experiment and find out what works for you. The more casual the outfit, the less strict the rules, so if you’re doing something deliberately convention-defying (like the rocker example we used at the start), don’t sweat it too much. If it looks good in the mirror, go with it, and don’t worry whether it’s “right” or not.

As with all colors, the most important thing to remember is to avoid things that are close but not quite matching. Those are the worst-looking clashes — it looks like you tried for a unified outfit and screwed it up a little. Keep the contrast clear and you should be fine.

 

[Maximus Rex]

http://www.realmenrealstyle.com/semi-brogue-shoes/

Distinctive.

Yet Subtly Stylish.

This is how I describe the semi-brogue.

Why is subtle important?

Because it allows for versatility and interchangeability.

Semi-Brogues are the perfect balance between being noteworthy and refined.

Decorative enough to attract compliments, but conventional enough to wear repeatedly.

Ever wanted to get away with wearing the same shoes every day?

The semi-brogue allows you to do just that.

These shoes are perhaps the perfect business casual shoe.

Historically, “brogue” refers to the perforations on a shoe that were originally intended to drain water from the feet of peasant workers in the Highland marshes of Scotland and Ireland.

That’s right, these were the original crocs!

In the present, the perforations are strictly aesthetic.

This educational article is brought to you by my friends Paul Evans. I personally own 9 pairs of their high quality men’s leather shoes, including their signature semi-brogue style, the Brando.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ruO-e4gWY4

Basic characteristics of the brogue shoe:

• Low heels.
  
• Toe caps.
  
• Heel caps.
  
• Lace panels.
  
• Decorative perforations (brogueing).
  

Over time, various designs of brogues have evolved although only a few grabbed mainstream attention.

The most available brogue styles include the full brogues, semi brogues, quarter brogues and long-wing brogues. The distinguishing factor in each style is the toe-cap.

The full brogue has a winged toecap, hence the name wingtips. A semi brogue has a straight toecap.

• Quarter brogues – The toecap seam on quarter brogues are lined with decorative perforations, with no other brogueing on the shoe.
  
• Semi-brogues – The only brogueing on the shoe is on the seams of the toe cap, vamp, and heel.
  
• Full brogues – The perforations decorate the wingtip-like toecap, along the seams and often on the body of the wings which cover the entire shoe.
  
• Longwing brogues – Similar to full brogues, except that the wings meet at the back of the shoe, forming a complete circuit of the shoe.
  

Any or all of these can also sometimes (but not necessarily) feature decorative edging or serrations along the seams, particularly the toecap seam.

The focus of this article is the semi-brogue, or half-brogue style – perhaps the perfect business casual shoe.

• Dark colored plain Oxfords – Formal, suitable for black-tie events in the right color and style.
  
  [*] Wholecut shoes – Arguably the best dress shoe. Memorable for their sophisticated style.
  
  [*] Semi brogue – Perhaps the most versatile business casual shoe. You can dress it up with a suit or wear it with jeans and a polo shirt.
  
  [*] Wingtips – The fancier version of brogues. The extra broguing makes them less formal.
  
  [*] Chukka boot – A sleek casual boot that is more at home with smart denim trousers.
  
  [*] Loafers – Suited for smart casual outfits, it is possible to dress them up in certain styles.
  
  [*] Driving shoes – Designed for leisure wear, these are the most casual leather shoes for men.
  
  

What Are Semi-Brogue Or Half brogue Shoes?

The half-brogue was made famous by the legendary John Lobb, who introduced the shoe as an Oxford in 1937.

The style was produced to offer clients a middle ground between the bold design of a full brogue and the rather plain quarter brogue.

Characterized by a toe-cap, a semi-brogue shoe has decorative perforations and serration along the cap’s edge, along with additional perforations on the heel and often times the center of the toe cap.

The Paul Evans semi-brogues opted for no additional broguing in the center of the toe cap, however it is still classified as a semi-brogue because of the heel perforations.

The perforations on a semi brogue cover the entire toe cap’s edge. The unfussy decoration is appealing and adds classic simplicity to your outfit.

These are shoes that subtly add to the overall stylishness of your outfit without attracting too much attention to your feet.

Formality Of Semi-Brogues[/size=4]

Until the early 1900’s, brogues were considered a casual shoe. Traditionally, they were designed to be outdoor footwear.

Brogues were not intended for casual or business occasions. Over time, they were adapted as walking shoes for country gentlemen.

The modern use of perforations solely for decorative purposes has allowed the brogue to be viewed as business casual and in some cases, even formal footwear.

The formality of a brogue is inversely proportional to the broguing.

A shoe is less formal the more broguing it has. Semi-brogues are more formal than full brogues.

How to Wear Half Brogue Shoes

Semi brogue shoes provide the ideal balance between simplicity and fancy decorations.

Since semi brogues occupy the middle ground between the plainer design of a quarter brogue and the extravagance of a full brogue, they are suited for both business and casual occasions.

The lighter weight of the half brogue makes it a more elegant choice than a full brogue, while escaping the stark formality of a plain or quarter brogue oxford.

• Classic colors for semi brogues are brown, oxblood and black.
  
• In oxblood and darker brown colors like chestnut brown, semi brogues are a versatile option and can be worn with a sports jacket or a brown suit.
  
• Pair your semi brogues with jeans, chinos and moleskin trousers in a casual setting.
  
• Every variation of blue blends perfectly with the brown semi-brogue
  

Materials For Half Brogues

Brogues are most commonly made of box calf leather, with varieties now produced in other kinds of leather, including suede.

The half brogue style is best presented in a smooth or uniform leather that makes the broguing shine.

Exotic leathers are not suited for brogues as the grain tends to overpower the decorative perforations.

Final Words

Whether you are a ‘jeans and polo’ kind of guy, or your preference leans towards sports jacket and colored suits, a pair of semi brogue oxford is a versatile pick.

Dress it up. Dress it down. These shoes are the perfect foundation to build a smart business casual outfit.

Looking to purchase a quality pair of leather semi-brogue shoes?

Check out Paul Evans for more styles of classic shoes designed in New York and hand-made in Italy.

 

[banginscrew901]

I always thought it was ok to wear loafers with shorts. I'll keep that in mind this summer

 

[Bcotton5]

damn I need this thread, starting a new job working in a office setting, need some business casual type shoes for work

any recommendations?

 

[Maximus Rex]

damn I need this thread, starting a new job working in a office setting, need some business casual type shoes for work

any recommendations?

Bruh, didn't you read the thread? There's a post on business causal shoes on this thread. Dudes be hella slow sometimes.

 

[Bcotton5]

bought some semi brogues from payless lmao

 

[banginscrew901]

bought some semi brogues from payless lmao

Take them back and get you some better shoes mane. If not you better invest in the top of line dr scholls

 

[Maximus Rex]

bought some semi brogues from payless lmao

Stop playing bruh. If you can spend a $100 on some sneakers or two bills for some J's you can go to Allen Edmonds or Aldens to get some dress shoes that will literally last for 30 years if you take care of them. Also, if you buy the shoes from Allen Edmonds or Aldens you'll be able to have the shoes rebuilt if necessary.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cT5VJmmgVM

Allen Edmonds Shoe Recrafting

 

[Bcotton5]

bought some semi brogues from payless lmao

Stop playing bruh. If you can spend a $100 on some sneakers or two bills for some J's you can go to Allen Edmonds or Aldens to get some dress shoes that will literally last for 30 years if you take care of them. Also, if you buy the shoes from Allen Edmonds or Aldens you'll be able to have the shoes rebuilt if necessary.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cT5VJmmgVM

Allen Edmonds Shoe Recrafting

i aint got that kinda scratch right now

I dont buy Jordans

 

[Maximus Rex]

bought some semi brogues from payless lmao

Stop playing bruh. If you can spend a $100 on some sneakers or two bills for some J's you can go to Allen Edmonds or Aldens to get some dress shoes that will literally last for 30 years if you take care of them. Also, if you buy the shoes from Allen Edmonds or Aldens you'll be able to have the shoes rebuilt if necessary.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cT5VJmmgVM

Allen Edmonds Shoe Recrafting

i aint got that kinda scratch right now

I dont buy Jordans

Save your money then. You'll be glad that you did.

 

[Bcotton5]

bought some semi brogues from payless lmao

Stop playing bruh. If you can spend a $100 on some sneakers or two bills for some J's you can go to Allen Edmonds or Aldens to get some dress shoes that will literally last for 30 years if you take care of them. Also, if you buy the shoes from Allen Edmonds or Aldens you'll be able to have the shoes rebuilt if necessary.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cT5VJmmgVM

Allen Edmonds Shoe Recrafting

i aint got that kinda scratch right now

I dont buy Jordans

Save your money then. You'll be glad that you did.

I took them back and caught a pair of cole haans and a pair of steve maddens on sale this weekend, shit they was barely more than the payless shoes

 

[Maximus Rex]

http://www.realmenrealstyle.com/guide-dress-boots/

Versatility. Masculinity. Durability. What ONE shoe embodies all these words? The answer? It’s not a shoe……It’s the dress boot. Are dress boots really necessary? Do you need to buy a pair to round out your wardrobe? Well out of the 30 pairs of shoes in my closet….I wear my dress boots 50% of the time. Yeah – they’re just that useful! They send the message I want to say (rugged, stylish, strong)…and when I’m walking up wet bleachers (like at my son’s football game!) I don’t fall on my backside! Dress Boots RULE! This article is going to be your ultimate guide to the dress boot.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0aESzO5EIHY

This post was brought to you in collaboration with Thursday Boots. I’ve been field testing this company for over 6 months. When it comes to comfortable dress boots they win. Why? Because they have a buttery soft inner glove lining, an EVA comfort strip, and a cork bed midsole that molds to the foot. In other words, 14 hours after wearing them they will still feel GREAT.

1. Why Wear Dress Boots?

First let us agree on how to distinguish a boot from a shoe: A dress boot is simply a dress shoe with ankle support.

1A: Historical Relevance

Boots and boot fashion are rooted in a long history. The very first boot that existed was a lashed combination of three separate pieces: the sole, upper and leggings. It went through a lot of transformations.

Ancient Times

Early versions of the boot were worn by kings and emperors while most of the population went barefoot. They were embroidered with colorful jewels and had gold soles. The type known as campagnus was worn by senators and high-ranking officers in ancient Rome – the height of the boot denoted their rank.

Middle Ages

Recordings show that courtiers of the Carolingian period wore long boots that were laced halfway up the leg.

15th Century

Men would wear thigh-length boots that were normally made of brown leather. This was the common style among those in the working class.

17th Century

The first military uniforms were created and along came a more polished boot with a rigid leg – the prototypical jackboot. It was practical footwear for army men and protected the legs well while riding a horse. The style served as inspiration for the “jockey” boot that soon followed. This one was softer and had the top folded down under the knee for mobility. Men who weren’t in battle got to use it for riding sports.

Late 18th Century

Several other boots that were named after military figures or developments started to become trends: Blucher, Hessian and Wellington.

1B: Power And Prestige

What’s shown in the past is boots have symbolized ruling power and strength. Earlier on they were only for people of high authority like in Ancient Rome – where leather was expensive back then. But what leaders wore were eventually passed on to the common folk.

Ordinary men liked wearing boots throughout history. At some points they even preferred them to shoes. It was the 14th and 15th centuries when shoes were first made with leather, cloth or silk – and were normally flat. They weren’t as prestigious as boots.

Only in the early 1600s did shoes (paired with stockings) reach their peak. James I of England was ruling and court fashions were flamboyant and decorative. Wealthy people had their shoes fixed with rosettes or bows. The trend didn’t last long once Charles I took over. Wars and political instability forced things to change and people soon switched to military-inspired boots. It was a more serious time.

1C: Protection

From a practical standpoint, boots take better care of your feet and lower legs than shoes do. They’re meant to give you extra protection from bad weather or environmental hazards. This is why many designers nowadays think of boots as fall/winter accessories.

1D: Versatile Style

Wear boots and you can change up your style. You look outdoorsy – like you’re ready to go horseback riding or chop some wood. Society puts emphasis on a healthy and active lifestyle. People who get out there and break a sweat (even if it’s cold) seem more attractive these days. Boots offer that kind of style.

1E: The Message Dress Boots Send

Boots set us up for certain perceptions that are either true or sort of true. But you’ll want them to apply regardless.

Masculinity: You appear big and manly. That’s because they cover more of the legs and look heavier than shoes. Some also have larger heels. And let’s not forget that dress boots aren’t as “refined” as dress shoes. Some women like the more rugged look.

Social status: You can afford to cover up for the cold months.

Responsibility: You know how to take care of yourself.

Respect: You’re worth some degree of respect since you look “important” – we trace it back to boots’ history as military footwear.

Character: You wear your chosen boots your way and not let them wear you.

Taste: You show that you bought those boots with discretion (given they look awesome on you) and not just out of need.

Individuality: You’re presenting yourself with whatever presents YOU – your true self – best.

2. Dress Boot Anatomy

Let’s now get a better understanding of the boot in terms of composition. Most of these parts reflect the type of boot or lacing system that applies to any given pair.

2A: The Upper

Here we have all of the components found above the sole. These are the parts that affect design, appearance and circulation (allowing air to enter and keep feet at a constant temperature).

Quarter: covers the back and sides of the boot. It’s wrapped around the heel and connects to the vamp.

Lining: adds more durability and protection. It can be made of leather, fabric or synthetics. The lining on the insole is called “the sock.”

Tongue: the flap going underneath the laces to cover the throat. It prevents dirt and water from entering the boots.

Open Lacing: where the bootlaces are found.

Throat: the central part formed by the seam that joins together the vamp and the quarter.

Eyelets: the small round holes (often fixed with metal rings) through which the laces are tied.

Vamp: the front area that protects the instep.

Toe: the flattish portion that extends from the vamp. It fully covers the toes up to the tip where it joins with the sole.

Welt: the border of the boot. It’s made of a material (i.e. leather) that is sewn along the edge of the upper.

2B: The Sole And Below

The following are the parts that support the bottom of your foot and provide balance and comfort.

Insole: the base for the foot that anchors together all parts of the upper.

Outsole: the durable outer sole of the boot. Ideally it’s waterproof and resistant to slips or skids.

Heel: the raised component that’s found underneath the back of the sole. It lessens the impact of the ground on the heel of your foot.

Shank: made of metal or plastic plates that are built into the sole. It reinforces stability and prevents the boot from distortions while it’s worn. Boots with wedged soles or low heels don’t need a shank.

 

[Maximus Rex]

Ultimate Guide to Dress Boot Pt. II

3. Types of Dress Boots

There are three major categories of dress boots every guy should be aware of: Chukka boots, Chelsea boots, and lace-up boots. We’re breaking down each type in terms of style and lacing, as well as the advantages to wearing each one.

3A: Lace-Up Boot

The lace-up boot is pretty much an ankle-high version of the dress shoe. History shows the first of its kind was worn by Prince Albert, who asked for something he could wear on the grouse fields of his Scottish estate and that also looked stylish indoors. The boot is a great alternative to Oxford or Balmoral shoes – they share similar degrees of classiness.

Lacing

Both Oxford and Derby systems are suitable for lace-up boots. Whether one works better than the other depends on the boot design and purpose.

Style

In general these boots function as casual/business casual wear. However you can make an exception for black ones in professional occasions. Formal footwear is traditionally made of patent leather but a pair of sleek black lace-up boots is now acceptable.

Advantages

Since lace-up boots are similar to dress shoes, they share a simple aesthetic that’s easy to pair with a good suit. They are smart and timeless classics (especially the closed-laced ones). These boots add more class to even those tired or unoriginal outfits. That is why they’re reliable all-around.

3B: Chelsea Boot

The Chelsea boot goes all the way back to the Victorian era when men and women first wore it. Queen Victoria herself was known to walk in a pair every day. The ‘60s saw the boot become iconic all over the UK (as well as internationally) when The Beatles commissioned a special version with pointed toes and Cuban heels.

Lacing

These ankle-high boots are laceless. You slip them on and get them off just as easily by pulling the loop of fabric at the back.

Style

Chelsea boots work in both formal and casual situations. It doesn’t matter if it’s a suit or a blazer, whether your pants are dress slacks or designer jeans. These boots are great to wear most of the time. The key is picking the right color – black, brown, oxblood etc.

Advantages

These lace-free boots have elastic panels on either side of the quarter (part of their signature style). The panels keep them close-fitting and breathable inside. So for those who enjoy walking and horseback riding – Chelsea boots give them equal degrees of tightness and comfort.

3C: Chukka Boot

Many believe the Chukka boot originated in India among British soldiers who enjoyed playing polo. It was in 1924 when it reached US soil courtesy of the Duke of Windsor (who had also played polo and traveled to India). The name is a modification of “chukker” – the period of play in polo matches. Chukkas broke out in the late ‘40s, and until now they’re popular choices for casual and sporty wear.

Lacing

A Chukka boot has three pairs of eyelets and its laces are tied using the Derby system. They’re designed to look and feel comfortable.

Style

The rough-looking leather used to make chukkas is what gives them a strong casual appeal. The upper is made with suede or calfskin while the sole is leather-based. Both sections are traditionally made with contrasting colors.

Advantages

Unlike other boots chukkas feel light and loose when walking around in them. There’s enough foot protection through their leather-based uppers and sturdy outsoles.

Another advantage is their flexibility as footwear. They’re great with relaxed outfits such as a t-shirt and nice jeans. If you want something dressier like a sports jacket and slacks, these boots will work just as fine. That dressing up/dressing down convenience is why many young men enjoy wearing chukkas.

3D: Desert Boot

Desert boots are the most popular version of the Chukka today. They were first designed as comfortable and practical footwear for the British Army during World War II. Soldiers would use them for downtime while they were in the desert. These boots also use Derby lacing and share the same advantages as any chukka boot.

But desert boots have a slightly different style. They have either 2 or 3 pairs of eyelets and a sole made of crepe (a strong rubber) instead of leather. Another thing about them is the stitching around the sole – which isn’t as visible on other chukkas. This is what makes them look more casual.

 

[Maximus Rex]

Ultimate Guide to Dress Boots, fin.

4. Lacing Systems

4A: Derby (Open)

Derby or open-laced refers to boots that have eyelets sewn on top of the vamp. It’s also called “crisscross lacing” and works well for chukkas and less formal boots. The lacing can be made looser or tighter depending on your preference.

Purpose

Derby lacing started in the mid-19th century on boots and shoes that were used for hunting and sport. Only in the 20th century did more men start wearing them in the city. People soon found open-laced footwear more comfortable than closed-laced because of the expandable upper. Men these days still enjoy Derbies for relaxed casual attire.

4B: Oxford (Closed)

Meanwhile Oxford lacing has eyelets stitched under the vamp instead of above it. The vamp itself is sewn on top of the quarters while the tongue is an underlying part of it. The proper technique to lace Oxford boots is horizontally and parallel. The final look – neat horizontal lines – can be achieved in multiple ways but some aren’t as easy as others to tighten.

Purpose

These boots give significantly less upper allowance than open-laced boots. It’s that tight and neat lacing that makes them more formal choices. They are great for black-tie events and situations where you want to showcase your best self.

4C: Laceless (Slip-On)

The name says it all: no laces or tying up. The current popularity of slip-on boots (particularly with Chelsea boots) proves that unconventional-looking footwear can be stylish.

Purpose

Convenience is the number-one plus point with laceless boots. Because of flexible panels and loops at the back these boots are easy to wear and take off. Black versions go really well with suits and business attires.

5. Toe Types

Plain Toe

Toes on these boots are devoid of any lines. The toe and vamp have been “merged” to make everything look clean and minimalistic. That translates to extremely plain for some people.

Cap Toe

Cap toes are by far the most traditional type. Only the edge is patterned (normally with brogue) and this keeps the boots sleek and classy. They’re the most preferred design for business settings. But granted they might look boring when frequently worn in and out of the office.

Wingtip Toe

This edgier version of the cap toe has a pattern that spreads from the center point towards the sides. These wing-like details make the boots less chic but more interesting. Wingtip toes are perfect for casual wear.

Wingtip Medallion

The most decorative type, it’s a more complex version of the wingtip toe. Stitching or broguing is done all over the toe’s surface. The busy-looking patterns of wingtip medallions make them far more casual (and showy) than the rest.

An Additional Reminder

Remember that proportions matter when it comes to boots. It’s crucial to always take the boot’s shape into account whenever you buy trousers with a certain fit – and vice-versa.

The trick to managing boot proportions is to wear either straight leg or slim fit jeans. This accentuates the boots’ shape and style.

Always make sure your pants aren’t covering the boots beyond an inch or two. You don’t want them looking like another pair of shoes! Use cuffings or have the pants altered if necessary.

Keep all this information in mind. Stick to what we know about boots and soon you’ll find a pair that best expresses your character, your taste and individuality. Let boots give you a boost in style!

 

[king hassan]

bought some semi brogues from payless lmao

Stop playing bruh. If you can spend a $100 on some sneakers or two bills for some J's you can go to Allen Edmonds or Aldens to get some dress shoes that will literally last for 30 years if you take care of them. Also, if you buy the shoes from Allen Edmonds or Aldens you'll be able to have the shoes rebuilt if necessary.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cT5VJmmgVM

Allen Edmonds Shoe Recrafting

i aint got that kinda scratch right now

I dont buy Jordans

Save your money then. You'll be glad that you did.

I took them back and caught a pair of cole haans and a pair of steve maddens on sale this weekend, shit they was barely more than the payless shoes

Hit up a DSW homie